Wednesday, May 21, 2025

The Other Fish Market

The midnight Fish market was too much, even for me, so we tried again at a different place.  This time we went to a day fish market in Yilan Daxi.  This market was more my style.  Friendly vendors selling fish at a good price.  This isn’t a wholesale market.  This is a retail market.

You could ask questions, people smiled and talked to you, and didn’t make faces when you asked to buy one fish.  For me, it was all “Happy, happy, joy, joy!”  I always like it better when people don’t think I’m a pain in the butt.  I mean I am, but I just like it better when they don’t think that.

You don’t have to worry that the fish might not be fresh, either.  The fishermen get up real early in the morning…real early.  They get in their boats and go out fishing about 4:00 am.  Then they come back before 1:00 pm, and unload.  The market opens at 1:00 pm.  So, you’re buying the fish caught that morning. I saw crabs that were still alive, and trying to grab some guy with their pincers.  There were some fish in bowls of water still alive enough to give you the old “stink-eye.” 

All of the fish are caught just off the shore in a channel between Yilan and Turtle Island.  So many varieties; Amberjack, Scarlet Shrimp, crabs, Flying Fish, Red-eye, and the specialty of the market 安康魚 (phonetically: Awn Kong Yu), which we call Monkfish in English. 

The fish are reasonably priced.  We bought a giant Amberjack for $380 NTD, (about $12.69 USD), but the Amberjack had two flying fish in its stomach, so we got two bonus fish.  We also bought a kilo of Scarlet Shrimp, another Flying Fish and three Monkfish. All of that, plus that giant Amberjack cost us $1125 NTD (about $37.57 USD).

Here’s the really cool part though, after you buy the fish, and the vendor cleans them, then you take them upstairs to these restaurant stalls and they cook them up for you.  At the restaurant we got the Amberjack made into sushi, fried filet, and soup, (with the Flying Fish that were in the Amberjack’s stomach).  Then we had a fried Flying Fish, and they prepared the Monkfish with some vegetables.  We also got fried cabbage and 空心菜, (phonetically, kowng shin sigh) which is called water spinach in English.  In the US, you can only find 空心菜 in Asian stores, but it’s really expensive. The restaurant only charged $1020 NTD (about $34.06 USD).  Altogether we paid $2145 NTD, ($71.63 USD) for all that.  Five of us ended up eating fish for three days.  I think that’s pretty inexpensive.  You could probably get all of that in the states for the price of a small car.

That last place as I said I wouldn’t recommend for tourists.  It was not a fun place.  This place, on the other hand, I would call a "don’t miss" tourist stop.  It is even wheelchair accessible, with a large disabled person restroom and a ramp down to the Fish Market.  Fresh fish and delicious cooking, what more can you ask for, and definitely don’t forget the Monkfish.  It was the best part.

半夜的魚市場對我來說實在太誇張了,連我都受不了,所以我們換了個地方再試一次。這次我們去了宜蘭大溪的白天魚市場。這個市場就比較像我習慣的樣子了——友善的攤販、實惠的魚價。這不是批發市場,而是零售市場。

你可以問問題,人們會微笑並與你交談,而且當你只想買一條魚時,他們也不會露出不悅的表情。對我來說,整個體驗就像「快樂快樂、歡喜歡喜!」我總是比較喜歡別人不覺得我是個討人厭的人。雖然我的確有點煩,但我比較喜歡他們不這麼覺得。

你也不必擔心魚不新鮮。漁夫們一大早就起床……真的很早,大概凌晨四點就出海,然後在下午一點前返回卸貨。市場下午一點開門,所以你買到的是當天早上捕的新鮮魚。我還看到螃蟹活蹦亂跳,試圖用鉗子夾住某個人。有些魚還在水盆裡,活到可以對你翻白眼。

所有的魚都是在宜蘭與龜山島之間的海域捕撈的。種類多樣,有青魽魚、緋紅蝦、螃蟹、飛魚、紅眼魚,還有這個市場的招牌——安康魚(英文叫 Monkfish)。

魚的價格都很合理。我們買了一條超大的青魽魚只要380元台幣(約12.69美金),而且青魽魚肚子裡還有兩條飛魚,等於多了兩條魚!我們還買了一公斤的緋紅蝦、另外一條飛魚和三條安康魚。這些加上那條巨大的青魽魚總共花了1125元台幣(約37.57美金)。

最酷的是,買完魚之後,攤販會幫你處理乾淨,然後你可以把魚拿到樓上的小餐廳去,他們會幫你料理。我們把青魽魚做成壽司、炸魚排和湯(加上它肚子裡的飛魚)。接著還吃了炸飛魚,安康魚則是配上蔬菜一起烹調的。我們還點了炒高麗菜和空心菜(英文叫 water spinach)。在美國,空心菜只能在亞洲超市買到,而且很貴。但這裡的餐廳只收了1020元台幣(約34.06美金)。總共我們花了2145元台幣(約71.63美金),五個人吃了三天的魚。我覺得這真的很划算。在美國,這些東西的價格可能都能買一台小車了。

我之前說過那個半夜的市場我不推薦給觀光客,那真不是個好玩的地方。但這個地方我會稱之為「絕不能錯過」的旅遊景點。它甚至還有無障礙設施,有大型的無障礙廁所,還有通往魚市場的斜坡。新鮮的魚加上美味的料理,還能要求什麼呢?千萬別忘了安康魚,那是最好吃的部分!

 


Turtle Island

Egrets judging my fish choices.

The Market

Nice clothes, Full Makeup, and a nice hairdo to clean fish! Amazing




A busy place...not as busy as the other one, but pretty busy!

安康魚 - Monkfish

Elizabeth and I with our fish purchases

By the way, I'm not as bald as ChatGPT thinks I am.  順帶一提,我沒有 ChatGPT 想的那麼禿。


Good Gracious!  When did I get so old?



Photos by Eric Liu

All Posts and Photos Property of Taiwan Adventure Publication

Video courtesy of @HiElizabenny



Saturday, May 10, 2025

Take it from Ol' Jack Burton, On a Dark and Stormy Night!

The other night I did something that I’ve never done in Taiwan before.  I went to the Midnight Fish Market in Keelong. I loving going to markets in Taiwan.  Traditional markets, night markets, wet markets, day markets, morning markets, it doesn’t really matter.  They’re so loud and interesting, and there’s so much going on, I like to just hang out and watch.

This was something, though, that I was not prepared for…The midnight Fish Market!  This is where the fishermen bring their catches to sell to stores and restaurants.  It’s a wholesale market.  If you’re looking to buy one mackerel, you are in the wrong place.  Not only will they not sell it to you, but they won’t even answer you, when you ask how much. I saw huge tuna and salmon, bags and bags of clams and oysters, piles of fresh seaweed, shrimp that were bigger around than your fist and a bunch of fish I’d never seen before.     

There are thousands of people, big trucks driving through the middle of it, and people unloading case after case of seafood.  The whole place reminded me of the opening market scene in the movie, “Big Trouble in Little China.  I expected to see the old “Pork Chop Express," (1) rolling through the street, “on a dark and stormy night.” (2) (This is fun, let’s see how many “Big Trouble” references I can stuff into this short narrative.)


The place is chaotic.  Sometimes chaotic is fun and cool, in this case, it was one of the most intimidating places I’ve ever been, even Jack Burton (3) would have been intimidated. I fully expected to see some guy floating down on a lightning bolt (4).   

So, all this was happening on a small street in Keelong.  I looked around for a harbor with fishing boats nearby, but I didn’t see one.  The fish come from fisherman’s wharf in Danshui, or more to the east, I think, off Highway 2.  In any case, all of the fish coming in here came on trucks. 

This is not something I would recommend to tourists, it’s interesting to see, but I wouldn’t want to go there without someone who’s been there before.  Fortunately, Elizabeth has blue eyes, so I didn’t have to rescue a girl with green eyes, from a guy named Lo Pan! (5)  That’s five “Big Trouble” references, six if you count the title! 

If you haven’t seen it, you’re missing out!

前幾個晚上,我在台灣做了一件從來沒做過的事:我去了基隆的午夜魚市場。
我很喜歡逛台灣的各種市場,傳統市場、夜市、濕市場、日市、早市——其實哪種都沒差。
那些地方總是又吵又有趣,發生很多事,我就喜歡待在那邊,看著人來人往。

但這次的經驗我真的沒準備好……就是那個午夜魚市場!
這是漁夫們把他們捕來的漁獲拿來賣給店家和餐廳的地方,是個批發市場。
如果你只是想買一條鯖魚,那你來錯地方了。他們不但不會賣你,連你問價錢都不會理你。
我看到巨大的鮪魚和鮭魚,一袋又一袋的蛤蠣和牡蠣,一堆新鮮的海帶,還有比拳頭還粗的蝦子,還有一堆我從沒見過的魚。

那裡有上千人,還有大卡車直接從市場中間開過去,人們不停地搬下箱子,一箱又一箱的海鮮。
整個場景讓我想到電影《新龍風雲》(Big Trouble in Little China)開場那段市場的畫面。
我差點以為會看到老舊的「豬排快車(Pork Chop Express)」在「又黑又暴風雨的夜晚」穿街而過。
(這好玩,我要看看能在這段小故事裡塞多少個《新龍風雲》的梗。)

那個地方真的很混亂。混亂有時候會讓人覺得很酷很好玩,但這次是我去過最讓人壓力爆棚的地方之一,就連Jack Burton大概也會嚇到吧。
我幾乎覺得下一秒會有人從一道閃電中漂浮下來。

這一切居然就發生在基隆一條小街上。我四處張望,想找找有沒有附近的漁港或漁船,但什麼都沒看到。
那些魚應該是從淡水的漁人碼頭來的,或者是更東邊,我猜可能是台2線沿線的哪個地方。
不管怎樣,所有的魚都是用卡車運來的。

這不是我會推薦給觀光客的行程,雖然很有趣,但如果沒有人帶路的話,我不會想自己去。
幸好Elizabeth是藍眼睛的,我就不用從叫做Lo Pan的傢伙手中去救一個綠眼睛的女孩了!
這樣總共五個《Big Trouble in Little China》的梗了。如果你還沒看過這部片,那你真的錯過了!

如果你還沒看過這部片,那你真的錯過了!

Try Navigating This in a Wheelchair!

Roly, Poly Fish Heads!

Fresh Kelp



Dried Fish (served with peanuts, usually)

Bags o' Clams

Baby Octopi

Some of the Varieties of Fish Available, Emphasis on Some

Amber Jack

Flying Fish

Leopard Coral Grouper

Parrot Fish

Red Big Eye

Yellowfin Tuna

Giant Tiger Prawns

Do We Look Intimidated?


Jack Burton (Kurt Russell)


Photos by Eric Liu (exception Jack Burton)
All Posts and Photos (except Jack Burton) Property of Taiwan Adventure Publications

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